LSN : News : The Big Idea: Brand Innovation Debrief: Ssense

The Trend: Decolonised Cowboy Core

Gap in collaboration with Dapper Dan, US

Black musicians, designers, film-makers and artists are reshaping the American cowboy archetype, sparking a cultural renaissance with enduring impact.

The shift gained momentum in 2016 with The Studio Museum in Harlem’s ground-breaking Black Cowboy exhibition. This was followed by a pivotal moment in 2019 when queer Black artist Lil Nas X released the genre-defying hit Old Town Road, shattering stereotypes and re-imagining cowboy imagery.

From music and fashion runways to cinema screens, Black and Indigenous artists are celebrating their cowboy heritage with new-found vigour, championing a vibrant and inclusive take on the yeehaw movement.

Fashion has not remained untouched. Beyoncé’s rodeo-themed Ivy Park and Adidas collection in 2021 fused Western style with streetwear, while Willy Chavarría’s collection at New York Fashion Week 2024 explored the notion of Americanness from the outskirts, celebrating the identities of queer, immigrant and all other Americans who are under-represented in Uncle Sam’s conventional visual narratives.  

Find more insights in our Decolonised Cowboy Core microtrend report.

The Big Idea: Brand Innovation Debrief: Ssense

Amid a tough landscape for multi-brand luxury e-tailers, Ssense stands out by blending emerging talents, legacy brands, pop culture, data and strategic discounts. Founded in 2003 by the Atallah brothers, the Montreal-based retailer attracts 100m monthly page views, primarily from a young audience, with its innovative e-commerce approach and cultural cachet.

Ssense’s social media strategy uses memes and pop culture to engage Gen Z and Millennials, adapting quickly to trends while spotlighting products. Recognised as a tastemaker brand, it discovered designers like Marine Serre early on, as noted in our Luxury States: New Codes of Luxury 2024–2025 macrotrend report.

Its biannual-ish sales, offering up to 70% off brands like Maison Margiela and Rick Owens, have become a cultural event, cementing its relevance among fashion enthusiasts. Now, Ssense is expanding its physical retail presence, promising fresh in-person experiences to complement its digital success.

Find more about Ssense’s recipe for success in our Brand Innovation Debrief: Ssense report.

Ssense and Diesel Brown Exclusive Capsule, EU and UK

The Campaign: Eckhaus Latta trades classic fashion show for a dinner party

Eckhaus Latta spring/summer 2025, US

 In an era when the relevance of fashion shows is being questioned, American brand Eckhaus Latta delivered an alternative that felt refreshingly personal and authentic at New York Fashion Week in September 2024. Instead of a traditional runway, the design duo hosted an intimate dinner in a Tribeca loft, inviting close friends to style themselves in their Spring collection.

The low-key atmosphere quickly shifted when comedian Kate Berlant announced: ‘Oh, you thought this was just a dinner. Wrong,’ as guests, including artist Ella Emhoff, took turns strutting down a makeshift runway.

The experience emphasised the freedom that comes with independent creativity. ‘It’s not like we are beholden to some sort of board,’ said Zoe Latta, co-founder of the brand, highlighting their intention to disrupt the fashion show format.

This approach reflects the evolving relationship between fashion and community, blending casual celebration with the showcase of new designs.

The Viewpoint: Premium Fashion’s Comeback

Zara in collaboration with Nanushka, Spain and Hungary

The premium contemporary fashion category is making a strong comeback as a chic, affordable alternative to luxury’s ever-rising prices, bridging the gap between cost and quality.

After a post-pandemic surge, growth in the luxury sector has stalled. In 2024, the global personal luxury market declined for the first time since 2008, dropping 2% from its record high of £307.7bn ($387bn, €369bn) in 2023 (source: Forbes). Rising living costs and luxury’s escalating price points have left major players like Burberry and Gucci grappling with slowing demand.

As The Guardian’s Edward Helmore observes, luxury may be entering its 'flop era', with a market slowdown in China and the US, coupled with the fading effects of pandemic-era spending. Consumers’ frustration with inflated prices and static product quality is exacerbating the decline.

In contrast, the premium contemporary category is positioned to thrive, particularly in times of inflation and economic uncertainty. Straddling value for money and quality, it appeals to shoppers who baulk at luxury prices but refuse to compromise on craftsmanship or style.

The allure of premium contemporary lies in its versatility: luxury brands can expand their reach and maintain trendsetting influence, while high street labels can collaborate with high-end talent to elevate their offerings and unlock new revenue streams.

Read more about this shift in our Premium Fashion’s Comeback viewpoint report.

The Space: Collina Strada spring/summer 2025 encourages reconnection with nature

Collina Strada spring/summer 2025 Touch Grass, New York Fashion Week, US

In September 2024, in New York’s Marble Cemetery, Collina Strada’s spring/summer 2025 showcase delivered a colourful and climate-conscious reminder to ‘touch grass’, inviting attendees to reconnect with nature amid today’s chaotic world.

The show, staged in the heart of the East Village, offered a brief escape from the outside world’s perils, as creative director Hillary Taymour transformed the venue into a serene and green utopia.

Drawing inspiration from the viral ‘touch grass’ meme, Taymour’s collection embodied a playful yet poignant call for balance, urging people to ground themselves in nature.

‘The world feels like a battlefield in so many ways right now, and I think we can all reconnect and find that peaceful centre by touching grass,’ explained Taymour.

Sustainability advocates made notable appearances, including Brooklyn’s famed Green Lady and designer Mara Hoffman. In true Collina Strada fashion, the collection embraced whimsy and environmental consciousness, with models donning floor-length, green-tipped hair and grass clippings on their ankles.

The finale featured a model pushing a vintage lawnmower while wearing pieces from Taymour’s new sunglasses line, underlining the theme of reconnecting with nature through simple, everyday actions. The spring/summer 2025 collection tastefully blends femininity, sustainability and fashion with a fresh perspective on climate-conscious living.

Download the Future Forecast 2025 report

Now that you know what shaped 2024, discover what’s on the horizon. Download our Future Forecast 2025 report comprising 50 new trends across 10 key consumer sectors, insights from our analysts and interviews with global innovators.

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