Signals

UK – At the 2023 London Design Festival (LDF), Danish designer Ganni unveiled a one-off edition of its Bou bag made from a bacterial leather alternative.

Unveiled during LDF’s Material Matters 2023 event, the bacterial leather material was made by London biotech company Modern Synthesis using a process developed by CEO Jen Keane during her degree course at Central Saint Martins. Modern Synthesis grows bacteria over a framework of threads by feeding it agricultural waste. The microbes then convert sugar found in the waste into nanocellulose, a finer form of the cellulose fibres found in cotton and eight times as strong as stainless steel relative to its weight.

The resulting fibres create a material that drapes in a similar way to cowhide, but has the potential to generate up to 65 times fewer greenhouse gas emissions than real leather and doesn’t require the use of plastic coating for durability. The bag’s lining, however, does contain plastic microfibres, although the two brands are working together to create a 100% cellulose-based version of the Bou bag in the future.

‘Collaborating with Ganni on the Bou bag has allowed us to showcase the viability of bacterial cellulose-based materials in real-world applications,’ Keane told Dezeen. ‘These one-off showcase pieces are pivotal in evaluating a material’s workability and appeal to both designers and consumers – which paves the way for its eventual integration into everyday fashion.’

Ganni and Modern Synthesis hope to make the handbag commercially available by 2025.

Read our full rundown of the London Design Festival on LS:N Global now, including key takeaways from the Material Matters event.

US – American households may be suffering from inflation, but they are willing to splurge on holidays like Halloween nonetheless. A new survey reveals that a record number of people (73%) will participate in Halloween-related activities this year, up from 69% in 2022.

After a pandemic-induced slowdown, the Halloween craze is back in full swing, according to the National Retail Federation’s annual survey, which polled about 8,000 Americans on their holiday plans. Total spending on Halloween is expected to reach a record £10bn ($12.2bn, €11.5bn) nationwide, exceeding last year’s record of £8.6bn ($10.6bn, €10bn). As in previous years, top activities include handing out confectionery (68%), home decorating (53%) and dressing up (50%). This year, however, more consumers are planning to throw or attend parties (32%) or participate in trick-or-treating (28%).

The paradox between inflation struggles and record-breaking spending on superficial fun shows the deep cognitive dissonance consumers are feeling, and the need to alleviate chronic anxiety and frustration with some light-hearted enjoyment.